Serger Quilt as You Go Baby Quilt
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accurate. However, we cannot guarantee our instructions. Mistakes can be made!
If you see an instruction that looks wrong, or there is something you do not
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Fabric: The quilt is about 35"square. Yardage requirements assume
careful cutting with a rotary cutter –buy extra if desired (it can sometimes
be hard to cut all these strips without making mistakes)–Also, feel free to
use scraps to make a scrappy log cabin.
- Serger in good working order
- 90/14 needles appropriate for your serger,
- Thread: For quilt: 4 cones of serger thread to match or coordinate
with your project, (Note: you may use regular sewing thread for your
- Tools: tweezers, small screwdriver, needle inserter, small scissors
- seam sealant (e.g. "Fraycheck") or crewel needle for
securing thread tails
- Straight pins (use sparingly – you may not need them)
- ½ yard of dark fabric #1; (*note if fabric is at least 44" wide you may
be able to get by with 3/8 yd.)
- 3/8 yard of dark fabric #2
- 3/8 yard of light fabric #1;
- ¼ yard of light fabric #2
- ¼ yard of border fabric
- backing fabric: 1 1/2 yards.
- ¼ yard fabric for binding. *NOTE: if you want to cut binding on the bias
you will need more fabric.
- crib size thin needlepunch cotton batting or cotton flannel. *The thinner
the batting the easier the project. Batting needs to be at least 45
by 60. (If you don’t want to have to cut carefully, you may want to get a
larger batt. [NOTE: some battings wear serger blades.]
- Pre-wash fabric & Cut strips *all strips are 3 ¾ " wide*.
There are 2 dark fabrics and 2 light fabrics. TIP: label the size of your
strips with small price labels as you cut them out.
- First dark fabric: cut 6 strips in all: 33 ¾"; 30 ¾"; 21
¾"; 18 ¾"; 9 ¾:6 ¾";
- Second dark fabric: 5 strips in all: 27 ¾"; 24 ¾"; 15
¾"; 12 ¾"; 3 ¾";
- First light fabric: 6 strips in all: 30 ¾"; 27 ¾"; 18
¾"; 15 ¾"; 6 ¾"; 3 ¾";
- Second light fabric: 4 strips in all: 24 ¾"; 21 ¾"; 12
¾"; 9 ¾";
- From Batting and backing fabric cut strips in the following sizes:
one 33 ¾" and 2 each of: 30 ¾"; 27 ¾"; 24 ¾"; 21
¾"; 18 ¾"; 15 ¾"; 12 ¾"; 9 ¾"; 6 ¾";3
- From Border, Batting and Backing fabric: 4 strips 1 ¾" by
width of fabric or at least 35" It will be easy to trim after
inner square is completed and all trimmed up.
- 2" strips of fabric for binding sewn into one long strip at least 4
- Serger setup: Thread serger for a 4-thread overlock stitch. Test with
scraps and adjust tension as needed.
- Now to layer your fabrics: Find your 3&3/4" squares. Put two
3¾"backing squares right sides together, Top with one
3¾" batting square, one dark 3¾" square, right side up,
one light 3 ¾" square wrong side up and second 3
¾" square batting.
- Lift presser foot and position fabrics just to the left of the cutting
knife. (shaving off a hair of fabric or none at all.) Serge.
- Open out
your fabrics so that the backing fabrics are on the bottom, and the seam is
enclosed. Finger press.
- Find one each:of your 6 ¾" rectangles: one batting, one
backing and one light fabric.
serged squares so that dark square is on top. NOW: Layer one rectangle of
backing fabric right sides together underneath the squares. Then layer
one rectangle of light fabric right sides together on top of squares,
followed by batting. Serge. Open out fabrics and press.
- Find the other 6 ¾" rectangles: one batting, one backing and one dark
- Turn the serged piece so that light rectangle is along bottom.
Layer one rectangle of backing fabric right sides together underneath
the squares. Then layer one rectangle of dark fabric right sides together on
top of squares, followed by batting.
- Serge. Open out fabrics and press.
- Continue adding strips, turning your work clockwise with each addition.
- When logs are complete, add top and bottom border followed by side
- Moving to the sewing machine, bind as desired or use method below.
- Add further quilting if desired, but it is not necessary.
Readying the binding: Seam together in one long strip.
Iron one side a generous 3/8" wide.
Sewing the binding: (This method is done on the sewing
machine. See quick method below)
A. Using a ¼" seam, and leaving a 3" tail,
begin sewing the un-ironed binding edge to the edge of one side of the back
of the quilt
right sides together. When you get to 1/4" from the bottom of that side,
B. Raise needle. Lift presser foot. Turn quilt for
C. To align binding with next side fold binding up at a
90 degree angle and then fold it down so that the edge of the fold is even
with the edge of the side you just sewed and the raw edge of the remaining
binding is even with the raw edge of the quilt you are about to bind.
Continue with all four sides.
D. When you get within 5 to 8 inches of the beginning
secure stitching and remove quilt to finger press as follows: Find where
the two ends meet. Finger press that join on both pieces of binding. Align
those two lines, pin and sew a seam. Trim seam allowance to 3
inch. Finish sewing binding. Fold binding to front of quilt and edge
stitch down to quilt. TIP: use a decorative stitch such as the feather
stitch or multi-step zigzag so you do not have to worry about having an
even line of stitching on the back of the quilt.
a paper-backed fusible web to your binding fabric. Cut in 1&1/4"
strips. Or cut 1 & 1/2" wide but use the wonderful wave blade on
your rotary cutter. Remove paper and (if necessary) piece into lengths long
enough for each side of the quilt.
of one binding strip to one back side of quilt. Fold to front. Fuse from the
front. Repeat with each side, trimming strip as needed. Edge stitch fused