Hans' Sewing & Vacuum carries a complete selection of machine needles for every situation

(mostly!) Schmetz Sewing Machine Needle Notes

Universal Needle 705H

All purpose needle has a slightly rounded point for sewing knit and woven fabrics. Use for most basic sewing. Usually a size 90/14 will work well. Comes in sizes 60/8 to 110/18.

Sharp Needle


Turquoise mark: penetrate heavy and closely woven fabrics

Microtex sharp

For heirloom sewing and microfibers, ultrasuede -very thin shaft and slim sharp point

Jeans needle
(705-HJ)

Has a blue shank, For stitching densely woven fabrics and denim -very sharp point and stiffer shaft to resist deflection. Sizes: 90/14 and 110/18.

Leather Needle
(705-HLL)

Wedge-shaped point which cuts through leather and vinyl, instead of tearing it.

Stretch
(705-HS)

Electroplated blue. Engineered with a bump above a small eye. Usually not needed. Use if you experience skipped stitches on a knit fabric **DON’T use in a serger.**

Ballpoint
(705-SUK)

for bulky Knits, elastics, and spandex -tip is more rounded than an "H" point

Decorative
Top-stitching needle
(130N)

 

A 5 pack of 90/14’s will take care of all your decorative stitching needs. Good "unfussy" needle for topstitching, free-machine embroidery, hooped embroidery, and "specialty" threads. Two strands of regular thread can pass through the eye
Sullivan Metafil needle "The perfect eye" for metallics and fussy threads. Also comes in twin size.

Machine Quilting Needle

Green mark: Special taper to the point -assists in sewing thick layers. (Note: Usually regular Universal needle works fine. If using monofilament thread you can use a 60/8 needle.)

Machine Embroidery Needle

Red mark: specially designed needle scarf and eye to eliminate thread shredding/breaking

Double Needles/ Triples/ Wing

Come in a variety of sizes/widths and for wovens and stretch fabrics Use double needles for hemming knits and all kinds for decorative effects. Wing needles are used in heirloom sewing.
 
Remember,  the most important thing you can do is just make sure you change your needle often. ("With each new garment", and "after 8 hours of sewing" are 2 "rules of thumb".) In our experience checking machine threading, using a new needle, and the right needle solves most sewing problems.
 
You want the eye of the needle to be large enough for your thread , and you want the shaft to be appropriate to the thickness of the fabric. A size 90/14 will work for many/most sewing situations. If you are sewing a thinner, lighter fabric, e.g. light cottons, etc. an 80.12 size is good. The 60/8 is a very small size used often in heirloom sewing and requires thinner thread.

The Source for much of this material is a great reference book available at our store: Claire Shaeffer’s Fabric Sewing Guide.